The reason why i described this process, is because i dont know if by inserting the stick in Homeseer first, it created some permanent data about Homeseer in my Z-wave stick which is causing me pain for HA.Īny help or guidance is much appreciated, as i really want to get off Homeseer, as much as it is 1000% reliable and easy to set up with little tinkering - i want to work with HA. Set up a new VM for HA, and moved the same USB stick from Home Seer to HA.(Homeseer devices worked very smoothly and without issue - the main reason why i want to move to HA is due to Integration possibilities - however i am stumped at the Z-wave door for HA). Ran Homeseer and discovered all devices.Sync individual Z-wave devices to Z-wave stick using standard Pair/Inclusion.I have tried restarting HA service, rebooting the system, leaving overnight, removing and re adding nodes, however that has not resolved any of the issues if i toggle On, Off, real quickly, it will still stay on When switches operate (close to what i describe as ‘Normal’), switching a toggle on and off in quick succession does not work properly i.e.In the event Switches do respond, it can take up to 60 seconds - 120 seconds.Switches do not respond (i can see the requests and responses in the event logs).I understand the Z-wave implementation is different between Homeseer and HA, however i have read many success stories on the forums for HA so one can only assume that my issue may not be unique to just me.ĮSXi Server running Ubuntu 18.04 VM (Generic Linux Install) In my opinion the ACT or HomePro ZCS101 Z-Wave RS232 Interface (rated at about 50) should be ok and cheaper than the Leviton. And I can't seem to get it via a config parameter, so I can't use the workaround of getting the value via REST in my rPi and poking it into an ISY variable.So after about a week on Homeseer, i finally decided to try Home Assistant however have been blocked severely due to z-wave components. Z-Wave works with FSK modulation with Manchester or NRZ binary encoding depending on the data speed (9600 or 40000 baud). But v4 just has "if sensor value = 23.6C" not allowing me to compare against another sensor. I'd like to use the temp to turn off my whole house fan once it gets warmer outside than inside.Anyone else know how? I tried setting all config parameters 0-255 to 15 while the light was on, but the color never changed. Different colors mean I left some window, door, gate open. I'd like to use the light as an indicator by the front door.Has anyone found a way to use REST to trigger Z-wave command class actions? (such as turn light on/off, set color values, read temperature or luminance).And v5 seems to be in forever alpha, so I'm not willing to switch yet. It would be great if ISY allowed a setting stored in ISY for the default format for reporting units.īut, I can't seem to make my basic use cases work. As others noted, temp is reported in degrees C, not F.From the Smart Things driver, I can see the config parameters, using ISY v4 latest, I can use REST to get and set those parameters.Using solar, human activation, along with a small capacitor / rechargeable battery offers truly the best in class use for all and reduces land fill waste.Īnyone have any additional luck with this sensor? Several companies have been using this technology for years - not sure why others haven't followed when its clear there is no real down side to using this technology. Ideally what should happen is companies using and expanding the solar / self generating piezeo electric modules. Its a time suck that I'm trying to reduce never mind the on going costs associated with rechargeable batteries. Įvery month I spend about six hours replacing, charging, testing, and rotating different battery cells. Its a no brainer in terms of what to buy and use. If a product supports both using a rechargeable battery and allows low voltage / 120 VAC.
![homeseer z-wave homeseer z-wave](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0066/8149/3559/products/HS-HT-PRO-back_500x500.jpg)
It doesn't mean I am adverse in using battery operated devices just that if there is a 120 VAC equivalent I consider that option. I've got a 110v right by the door, so it's pretty straight forward for me.Īs I get older and used countless battery operated devices in my home I share the same view. In my case, I just want to turn a light on if someone enters a small room. but I just don't like the idea of installing something I know is going to stop working and then stays not working until I get around to fixing it. I really dislike the idea of maintaining sensors with batteries. And yet the other option is battery operated motion sensors which end up in locations that are inconvenient for changing batteries.